Inspired by my recent trip to Copenhagen, and the spirit of the Danish architect and furniture designer Finn Juhl, to design and create furniture to suit my own taste and interior, I've made this Mid Century Modern style sideboard to fit into our new look living room.
This is not a hack....this was made from scratch, and although it is not perfect, I am rather proud of my first attempt at furniture making....And if I can do it, so can YOU!
So, in today's post I am sharing how I did it.
During my Copenhagen visit I fell in love with this sideboard from Normann Copenhagen , I love the simple design and the mix of blond wood with the white gloss pegboard.
But, as always, I could not afford to get one.
But lack of money has yet to stop me from getting the look I want for our home, as you will know if you've been following Nostalgiecat for a while...
And after doing a bit of research online, I found this, simpler version of the look I wanted:
|Image source : Houzz|
So, this was my main inspiration when I came up with the design to make my own.
But instead of forking out £700 + for one I spent less than £100 in materials and made my own custom fit one....in two days!
As whenever I share a tutorial for things I've made for the home, it is meant as a guide, so for example,if you don't share my love of pegboard, swap it for something else...
But below you can see my design and working drawings with measurements and read how I made mine:
Materials and tools:
Plywood (for the main box)
Furniture legs ( I ordered these from America)
Primer spray paint
Gold spray paint
White spray paint
Flush sliding door handles ( I chose these round ones)
Ruler or measuring tape
Drill and drillbits
The first thing to do is to make up the main body of the sideboard, using the plywood.
I used 18ml thick structural softwood plywood, because it has excellent stability and load-bearing properties, perfect for cabinetry + I really like the finish, coloring and grain of the surface wood.
Here's my working drawings with measurements to make up this box:
You can of course make this to a size to suit you and your space.
Cut out the pieces of wood, ( I used a jig saw with a guide to make the cuts straight )then assemble:
When assembling, the best thing to do is to pre-drill pilot holes, then screw together with 2" screws for stability.
Countersink the screw-heads into the wood.
PS! The middle, dividing piece of wood needs to be set back in the box to make space for the sliding door gear (see further below...)
Because I wanted a mix of wood and white glossy finish, I painted the inside "floor" and the top of my wooden box with white primer, to set the base for the finish later on....
Sliding door gear
Cut the sliding door runners to fit inside the top and bottom of the box...
Spray paint these in gold now, if you want...
Because I bought unfinished pegboard (The already finished stuff costs a lot more), I then spray painted the front of it white: Using first a primer, then some glossy white spray paint..
The table legs
As the spraypaint on the pegboard doors was now dry, I put them into the runners, by placing the top into the deepest top runner, then gently lifting the bottom into place in the bottom runner....
(I had to unscrew the space divider in the middle of my box to get enough movement in the wood to make this easier...Hence why I waited to apply the vinyl at the top...)
Positioning and attaching the legs
Turning the box upside down I loosely positioned the furniture legs, then stepped back to assess the positioning, before deciding on where they should go.
Then I marked their position with a pencil.
I chose angled leg fixing plates , because I wanted the legs to be slanted, but you can of course use a straight attachment, if you'd prefer...
These make attaching the table legs very easy:
Simply screw the fitting into position (don't forget pilot holes, or the wood might split) then screw the table legs into the fitting.
First I figured out where I wanted them on the sliding doors...
....then I marked the position with a pencil.
Because my handles were round , it was easy to cut a hole in the pegboard doors using a suitably sized hole-cutter bit for the drill .
(A rectangular or even square door handle would be much more difficult to fit)
Then I simply pushed the hardware into the holes, and secured with a dab of superglue on the back (not that I think this was strictly necessary as it was a tight fit)
With everything else in place, all I had to do now to finish off my new sideboard, was to fill over the countersunk screws and any little dinks on the top surface, using some quick dry filler, let it dry, then sand back with some sandpaper before applying the sticky back vinyl to the top.
(Making sure the surface is dust free before...)