....DIY
Inspired by my recent trip to Copenhagen, and the spirit of the Danish architect and furniture designer Finn Juhl, to design and create furniture to suit my own taste and interior, I've made this Mid Century Modern style sideboard to fit into our new look living room.
This is not a hack....this was made from scratch, and although it is not perfect, I am rather proud of my first attempt at furniture making....And if I can do it, so can YOU!
So, in today's post I am sharing how I did it.
But, as always, I could not afford to get one.
But lack of money has yet to stop me from getting the look I want for our home, as you will know if you've been following Nostalgiecat for a while...
And after doing a bit of research online, I found this, simpler version of the look I wanted:
So, this was my main inspiration when I came up with the design to make my own.
But instead of forking out £700 + for one I spent less than £100 in materials and made my own custom fit one....in two days!
As whenever I share a tutorial for things I've made for the home, it is meant as a guide, so for example,if you don't share my love of pegboard, swap it for something else...
But below you can see my design and working drawings with measurements and read how I made mine:
Materials and tools:
Furniture legs ( I ordered these from America)
Primer spray paint
Gold spray paint
White spray paint
Screws
Primer paint
Saw
Jigsaw
Sandpaper
Pencil
Ruler or measuring tape
Drill and drillbits
The box
The first thing to do is to make up the main body of the sideboard, using the plywood.
I used 18ml thick structural softwood plywood, because it has excellent stability and load-bearing properties, perfect for cabinetry + I really like the finish, coloring and grain of the surface wood.
Here's my working drawings with measurements to make up this box:
You can of course make this to a size to suit you and your space.
Cut out the pieces of wood, ( I used a jig saw with a guide to make the cuts straight )then assemble:
When assembling, the best thing to do is to pre-drill pilot holes, then screw together with 2" screws for stability.
Countersink the screw-heads into the wood.
PS! The middle, dividing piece of wood needs to be set back in the box to make space for the sliding door gear (see further below...)
Prime
Because I wanted a mix of wood and white glossy finish, I painted the inside "floor" and the top of my wooden box with white primer, to set the base for the finish later on....
Sliding door gear
Spray paint these in gold now, if you want...
Sliding doors
Whilst the primer paint on the box, and the spray-paint on the sliding door gear is drying, Cut your pegboard to make up the sliding doors:
One of your sliding doors needs to be slightly longer than the other,
and the height of each panel will need to fit inside the box,
so measure out the height of your box , minus the width of the wood x 2
+ take off a few ml extra to allow for the thickness of the door-sliders,
so that your pegboard sliding doors can move freely from side to side later...
But mind you don't cut the pegboard too small!!
NB! Please do not get pegboard that is thinner than 6 ml, as it will be too flimsy.
Use a fine toothed wood saw to cut the pegboard to avoid a splintered cutting line...
Spray paint the pegboard sliding doors
Because I bought unfinished pegboard (The already finished stuff costs a lot more), I then spray painted the front of it white: Using first a primer, then some glossy white spray paint..
The table legs
I did the same to the table legs...but this time using just a light dusting so that the wood grain would show through, which I think looks really nice!
I also sprayed the ferrule end gold to match the sliding doors runners...
There are loads of mid century modern style table legs available to buy online, I chose these ones, because I liked the shape and they were cheap, but I had to order them from America....
Vinyl, not gloss...
Because I chose to make my main box for the sideboard out of plywood, I would've never gotten that smooth glossy finish inside and on the top of it, using just paints....
.....So instead I covered these areas with some glossy white sticky back vinyl to get the finish I was after, perfectly juxtaposing the rawness of the wood.
I simply used a squidgy to smooth it down on the surface.
(The primer I applied earlier in these areas helped prevent the knots in the wood etc. showing through)
I did the inside of the box first, then last of all I did the top, as I needed access to the screws at the top of the box still at this point, as you will see below.
Insert the door runners.
By now my spraypainted door sliders was dry, so I tacked those in place according to the instructions on the pack: Using nail tacks and making sure I placed the deepest of the runners at the top, inside the box.
Inserting the pegboard doors
As the spraypaint on the pegboard doors was now dry, I put them into the runners, by placing the top into the deepest top runner, then gently lifting the bottom into place in the bottom runner....
(I had to unscrew the space divider in the middle of my box to get enough movement in the wood to make this easier...Hence why I waited to apply the vinyl at the top...)
Positioning and attaching the legs
Turning the box upside down I loosely positioned the furniture legs, then stepped back to assess the positioning, before deciding on where they should go.
Then I marked their position with a pencil.
These make attaching the table legs very easy:
Simply screw the fitting into position (don't forget pilot holes, or the wood might split) then screw the table legs into the fitting.
Starting to look like the finished article now...
Door handles
I wanted some round , brass door pulls , and ended up ordering these ones from America....
But there are loads of styles available online.
First I figured out where I wanted them on the sliding doors...
....then I marked the position with a pencil.
Because my handles were round , it was easy to cut a hole in the pegboard doors using a suitably sized hole-cutter bit for the drill .
(A rectangular or even square door handle would be much more difficult to fit)
Then I simply pushed the hardware into the holes, and secured with a dab of superglue on the back (not that I think this was strictly necessary as it was a tight fit)
With everything else in place, all I had to do now to finish off my new sideboard, was to fill over the countersunk screws and any little dinks on the top surface, using some quick dry filler, let it dry, then sand back with some sandpaper before applying the sticky back vinyl to the top.
(Making sure the surface is dust free before...)
I also lightly sanded the edges of the wood, and applied a coat of clear wax to the untreated wood on the sides of my sideboard....
....but that's it!
Finished!!
I am so chuffed with how it's turned out...yes, it is a bit wonky here and there, but for my first attempt at making furniture, not bad at all....
Making your own has the advantage that you'll get exactly what you wanted, both in terms of style and finish....but also you can make it to the right size to fit your space...
I love the raw feel of the plywood mixed with the white and opulent gold touches...
And by using the vinyl on the surfaces , I have achieved a very smooth and glossy finish, that I would not have been able to get using just paint. And again, I love how this smooth glossy finish juxtaposes with the rawness of the wood.
So, how about that?
Do you like it?
Does this inspire you to make your own?
I hope this post has made it a bit less daunting to embark on making your own sideboard, from scratch!
Not only will you have something uniquely yours in your home, but also the smug sense of achievement when you look at it and think to yourself:
I made that!
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